Preen. London, 16/09/12
The triumphant return of Preen to London Fashion Week was marked not only by an unparalleled collection drawing on Buffalo 66, but by an imminent addition to the Thornton Bregazzi dynasty as well. When a very pregnant Thea Bregazzi took her bow alongside soon-to-be father-of-two Justin Thornton, the significance of Preen’s homecoming was undeniable. London isn’t just the city the couple work in. It’s their home – and where it all began nearly fifteen years ago. The collection served as a reminder of Preen’s position as one of the original labels, which made London Fashion Week what it is today. Few designers master the art of that perfect little print dress, which has become almost synonymous with London fashion, quite like Thornton and Bregazzi. But of course they pretty much wrote the book on it. For SS13 it featured sleek reptile prints laid out in patchwork patterns, which weren’t without symbolic meaning to the designers. “We’re feeling slightly anxious at the moment. We have a baby due any minute. So it’s very patchwork, very choppy,” a high-spirited Justin Thornton told i-D online backstage. The prints set the tone for a highly pristine collection, whose minimal core was distinctly 90s, not least in the spine-tingling Jodie Foster-esque 90s power tailoring, which stood out above all. Against the slick backdrop of the Darwin Centre at The Natural History Museum – and to the characteristically dark beats of Pandora’s Jukeboxx – it was a pretty powerful start to a new London-era for Preen.
Text: Anders Christian Madsen